44. Mutehill via Kirkcudbright to Nun Mill Bay

Filling in a gap, I walk north from Mutehill, through the pretty town of Kirkcudbright - apparently the best place to retire in Britain (apart from the weather) - make it across the decaying bridge over the Dee, and southwards to Nun Mill Bay. On the way I encounter stories of fearsome gipsy chiefs and head chopping youngsters, Manx raiders and Galloway counter-raiders, and find out why they eat their mains before the soup in the Isle of Man.

36. Drumburn to Caulkerbush

From the middle of nowhere on the A710, I struggle with a tongue-twister while heading to the beach at Carsethorn. Then a long beach walk past a huge house on the beach, tunnels through rocks, and the first lighthouse since Lancashire... the ugliest lighthouse ever. Then more beach and an RSPB Nature Reserve, before ending at The Village With Two Names.