49. Carsluith via Creetown to Newton Stewart

View over Wigtown Bay

I explore an old fenced-off quay that used to export quarried stone throughout Britain, following the A74 along the coastline. Then through Creetown and its amazing ball. I follow the route of an old railway line high up above the River Cree, before trudging along boring country lanes for far too long, and a battle with a steep hill. Finally back to the A75, past the site of a much older battle and over the old bridge into Newton Stewart. Or is it Newton Douglas? It was, but now it's Newton Stewart again.

48 – Auchenlarie to Carsluith

Kirkdale Port

From Auchenlarie Caravan Park, I head up into the hills to avoid the A75, where glorious views across the bay are entirely obscured by fog. Past Barholm Castle, once home of the McCulloch's, then along a boulder-strewn miserable excuse for a beach to Carsluith Castle, once home of the Browns, who feuded with, and occasionally murdered the McCullochs. Finally a peaceful stroll into Carsluith village ends this short evening walk

44. Mutehill via Kirkcudbright to Nun Mill Bay

Filling in a gap, I walk north from Mutehill, through the pretty town of Kirkcudbright - apparently the best place to retire in Britain (apart from the weather) - make it across the decaying bridge over the Dee, and southwards to Nun Mill Bay. On the way I encounter stories of fearsome gipsy chiefs and head chopping youngsters, Manx raiders and Galloway counter-raiders, and find out why they eat their mains before the soup in the Isle of Man.

43. Dundrennan to Mutehill

I finally plug the gap in my walks, as the Dundrennan Range is open! I clamber over the fence with the "Keep Out" signs, and pass derelict houses and burned out military vehicles, dodging bullets and tanks on the way. Not really, as the army are on holiday this weekend. I come across the remains of an antelope mauled by lions on the Serengeti, and sleep in the long grasses. Finally I reach the sea and follow the coast up to Mutehill.

36. Drumburn to Caulkerbush

From the middle of nowhere on the A710, I struggle with a tongue-twister while heading to the beach at Carsethorn. Then a long beach walk past a huge house on the beach, tunnels through rocks, and the first lighthouse since Lancashire... the ugliest lighthouse ever. Then more beach and an RSPB Nature Reserve, before ending at The Village With Two Names.